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Surfing Malibu Beach California
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I CREATED THIS SERIES OF FAMOUS SURFING BREAKS AROUND THE WORLD.
Here you might actually roll up with five dudes and techno. Not a secret spot, nor an intensely-regulated locals spot, but there are a variety of ways in which to take one for the team at Malibu. It gets extremely crowded and with sometimes long lulls between waves. There�s certainly a local pecking order in the lineup, and a lot of testosterone as well. Set waves invariably catch the kooks on the inside, with multiple boards tombstoning and otherwise just obstacles bobbing about as you catch your wave. Collisions, heated exchanges, and the occasional fist does let fly. Desperation, frustration, darkness� but then that rare set outside and you�re in position! Keeps us all coming back.
October 25th, 2012
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